Wednesday, February 4, 2015

Philadelphia Story

Not the play, nor the movie, but some musings about the town in which I was born. I love it's quirkiness and panache. Founded by Quakers, full of blue bloods, yet Philly emanates a blue collar ethos. I hope the following vignettes bring to light some of the eccentricities that I love about my birthplace.

Philadelphia embraces its museums: the Museum of Art, the Norman Rockwell Museum, the Franklin Institute, to name a few. My attraction leans to the more bizarre. 

The Mutter Museum of the College of Physicians includes a collection of over 130 skulls, sections of Albert Einstein's brain, about 1,300 wet specimens of body parts, cysts and tumors in fluid...not the place for those with weak constitutions especially after lunch.

The Mummers Museum, not to be confused with the above, celebrates Philly's tradition of mummery. Mummers have marched through the town since the mid-17th century.  The first official parade was 1901. The Comics, Fancies, Fancy Brigades and String Bands parade every New Year's Day in a noisy, cold, endless procession. Not understood by out-of-towners, which could explain why it is dear to this Philadelphian.


The Rodin Museum is one of the most comprehensive collections of the French sculptor outside of Paris. Not as off-beat as the above, I only mention it here because when I was about 10, my father took me there. I was very excited to visit a museum dedicated to the Japanese sci-fi monster, Rodan. What did I know about the artist, Auguste Rodin. Guess I wasn't much of a thinker!

Philadelphia loves public art. The Liberty Bell, Billy Penn, the
LOVE statue. Then there's the clothespin. Directly across the street from City Hall was a bar where, incidentally, my great uncle, Jim, bartended for 40 years...ah digression. The bar was demolished. In its place for America's Bicentennial, the city wanted a sculpture. The commission went to Claes Oldenburg who constructed a 45-foot steel clothespin.

The city residents were outraged; how could the administration waste money this way; it's an eyesore and an embarrassment to the city. In 1984, newly elected mayor, Wilson Goode announced he would have the clothespin removed. The city residents were outraged; how could the administration do this; it's our clothespin and we love it. The clothespin still stands at Centre Square.

Philly has over 600 murals. In 1986, the city began the Mural Arts Program to fight graffiti in a positive way. Murals exist all over town. My favorite is on the corner of 3rd and South St. There sits Jon's Bar & Grill, but in 1902, it was the house where Louis Fineberg was born. Better known as Larry Fine of the Three Stooges, the owner decided to celebrate the birth of this great comedian by putting his image on the outside wall of his bar.

The only museum about the Stooges, the Stoogeum, is close by in Ambler, PA. But since it's not in the city proper, I only mention it as an aside. At least it's not in Niagara Falls. Niagara Falls...slowly I turn, step by step, inch by inch...as ever BB

"The streets are safe in Philadelphia; it's only the people who make them unsafe." - Frank Rizzo, chief of police of Philadelphia 1967-71, mayor 1972-80





Just a few of the Philly's magnificent murals:















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